Hardware Buying FAQ: Gate Latches, Socket Sets, and Drilling Stainless Steel

Before you read this, here's where it's coming from: I'm the office administrator for a 40-person manufacturing company. I manage all our facility and maintenance purchasing—roughly $50,000 a year across 8 vendors. I've been doing this since 2020, and these are the hardware questions I get asked the most.

Here's what we're covering:

• What to measure before ordering a gate latch
• When you need an anti-sag gate kit
• Whether an anti-sag kit works on a metal gate
• What socket set is worth buying for a maintenance crew
• Whether a slim profile mini ratchet set is actually useful
• How to drill stainless steel with a hole saw
• Why cheap gate latches keep failing

What should I measure before ordering a gate latch?

I've made this mistake more than once, so I'll save you the trouble: measure the gate before ordering anything. The "5-inch" in the National Hardware 5-in black gate latch refers to the latch length—the distance from the gate edge to where the thumb lever sits. Sounds straightforward, but it's easy to get wrong if you're just eyeballing it.

What else matters:

• Gate thickness. The latch wraps around the gate edge. Something sized for a 1.5-inch gate won't seat properly on a 2-inch gate.
• Mounting surface. Wood gates use the included screws. Metal gates typically need self-tapping screws.
• Clearance. Check whether the latch will hit the gate stop or post when the gate swings open.

The finish is another detail I used to ignore. For exterior gates, the black powder coat on the National Hardware latch has held up better than plain zinc in our experience. We used to replace zinc-coated latches roughly every 12–18 months on our property-line gate. The black one's going into its second winter and still moves freely. I want to say we paid around $11, but don't quote me on that—pricing varies by store.

When do I need an anti-sag gate kit instead of a new latch?

If your gate is dragging on the ground or you have to lift it to get it closed, a new latch isn't the fix. The latch is just catching the problem—the gate frame is out of square.

An anti-sag gate kit, like the National Hardware anti-sag gate kit N109-060, runs a diagonal tension rod across the gate face. Tightening the rod pulls the frame back into square, which realigns the latch. That's the part people miss: the kit does the structural work. The latch is just the visible piece.

Here's something vendors won't tell you: the kit only helps if the gate frame is still sound. We put one on a wooden gate that had dry rot around the hinges. It held for about two months, then the frame split and we were back to replacing the whole gate. The kit wasn't the problem—the structure underneath was.

If the frame is in decent shape and the gate is sagging, the N109-060 is a cheap fix compared to a full gate replacement. It was roughly $20 when we bought it in 2025. Steel prices have moved since, so verify current pricing.

Can I use an anti-sag gate kit on a metal gate?

This gets into fabrication territory, which isn't my specialty. But here's what I've seen from our orders and from talking with contractors who deal with metal gates.

Most anti-sag kits, including the N109-060, are built for wood gates. The brackets mount flat on the frame and take wood screws. On a metal tube frame, those same screws won't hold. You'd need self-tapping screws or through-bolts. Some shops weld small tabs onto the frame for the brackets to bolt to. That's custom work, so don't expect the kit to bolt directly to a metal gate.

Metal gates usually sag for a different reason too. It's often a loose hinge or a leaning post, not a twisted frame. An anti-sag kit isn't going to fix a leaning post—that takes bracing or resetting the post in concrete.

Quick check for a metal gate: measure the diagonal distances across the frame. If they differ by more than half an inch, you're probably dealing with a hinge or post issue, not the frame itself.

What socket set should I buy for a maintenance crew?

I used to buy the cheapest socket sets available. Made sense on paper—maintenance misplaces tools, so why spend more? Then our lead tech asked me to stop. The budget sets were stripping bolts and rounding out fasteners. We spent more on damaged hardware than we saved on the sets.

Here's what I look for now:

• Steel type. Chrome vanadium steel—which is what the Knect socket set uses—is stronger than cheaper carbon steel at a similar price.
• Actual size coverage. Walk the facility and see what bolt sizes are on your equipment. A 40-piece set with sizes you never touch is worse than a 20-piece set with the ones you need.
• Storage. A case that keeps sockets organized means they get put back. Loose sockets disappear.
• Warranty. When a manufacturer backs their set, that says something about their confidence.

The Knect socket set has been in our shop for 18 months now. The budget set from before didn't make it to the first year-end count. When a tool fails mid-repair, the tech has to stop, find another tool, and make up lost time. That cost hits your labor line, not just your tool budget. A lesson I had to learn the hard way.

Is a slim profile mini ratchet set actually useful?

Real talk: yes, but for specific jobs.

I'm not a mechanic, so I won't talk about gear teeth or torque specs like someone who turns wrenches all day. What I can tell you is how our crew actually uses the slim profile mini ratchet set we keep in the facility office.

The big advantage is access. The slim head reaches bolts a full-size ratchet can't—office chair bases, cubicle rails, access panels. We also keep one in each service vehicle because it disappears into a glove box. For quick tightening jobs, nobody drags out the big tool box.

The trade-off is leverage. A shorter handle means less torque. Anything rusted or over-tightened isn't the mini ratchet's job. One of our techs put it this way: "It's not a replacement. It's a scalpel."

If your team works on tight spaces and panels, it'll earn its keep. If all your work is heavy equipment and rusted fasteners, skip it. We bought ours for the jobs where a full-size set just doesn't fit.

How do you drill stainless steel with a hole saw without ruining it?

This question has cost us more hole saws than any other, so take notes.

Stainless steel is hard, and a hole saw builds heat fast. The quickest way to kill a saw is pushing hard at high speed. Instead:

• Use a saw rated for stainless. Bi-metal hole saws handle it much better than basic high-speed steel. If you're doing a lot of holes, a carbide-tipped saw is worth the higher upfront cost.
• Run slow. High RPM generates heat. Use the drill's slowest practical speed and let the teeth cut.
• Lubricate. Cutting fluid is ideal. A spray of WD-40 at the cut works in a pinch. Dry cutting is the fastest route to a dull saw.
• Light, steady pressure. Push hard and the blade skids, which work-hardens the steel and makes the cut even harder.

I'm not a machinist, so I won't quote RPM numbers. Every hole saw manufacturer publishes speed recommendations for stainless steel—keep that chart with the drill. Ours is taped to the toolbox, and it's saved us from ruining a few saws.

Why do cheaper gate latches keep failing? (The question nobody thinks to ask)

This is the question I wish I'd asked five years ago: the $5 latch and the $18 latch look identical. Why pay more?

Because the difference is mostly in the metal and the coating. Or rather, the difference that matters—cheaper latches use thinner material, and the finish chips. Once the coating goes, water gets in and the latch seizes. It's not branding. It's material cost, plain and simple.

When I took over purchasing in 2020, I bought the cheap latches and replaced them on a loop. Then I switched to the National Hardware 5-in black gate latch. The powder coat has handled a couple of Michigan winters without chipping. Will it last forever? I won't claim that. I can tell you we haven't replaced it since.

People ask about "heavy duty" and "weatherproof" claims. Per FTC guidance (ftc.gov), advertisers have to substantiate those. Some door hardware carries ANSI/BHMA grade ratings; gate latches are less standardized. So I trust field results. The slightly higher upfront cost has already been cheaper than the annual replacement cycle.